DAY 1
[Day 1, Saturday, May 16] - Keflavik
It had been about 15 years since Deb had last been on a plane, so she was a bit nervous. I can be, or was, a nervous flyer, but seemed to have gotten much better in the past year, given that I’ve been on a number of flights in a short period. The seats on Icelandair were what can be expected on economy class, although it seemed as though there was at least that precious extra inch or two of leg room. The hop was five hours and ten minutes, across about 4,600 km, with virtually zero turbulence. We departed at 2:25 pm and landed at 11:30 pm when one adds the four hours time difference. We took a cab to the Keflavik B&B, and bedded down almost right away after a long day of travel - but not before, with a bit of adrenalin and excitement at being here, taking a stroll around the complex. It was midnight and still twilight. Without trees, the place looks barren and almost lunar, and this punctuated still further by the fields of moss, lichen, and strewn lava rock debris.
As we would learn, it seems as though beds built for two (and not just two singles pushed together) are a bit of a rarity in Iceland. We fell asleep almost immediately and woke up to complimentary breakfast.
It had been about 15 years since Deb had last been on a plane, so she was a bit nervous. I can be, or was, a nervous flyer, but seemed to have gotten much better in the past year, given that I’ve been on a number of flights in a short period. The seats on Icelandair were what can be expected on economy class, although it seemed as though there was at least that precious extra inch or two of leg room. The hop was five hours and ten minutes, across about 4,600 km, with virtually zero turbulence. We departed at 2:25 pm and landed at 11:30 pm when one adds the four hours time difference. We took a cab to the Keflavik B&B, and bedded down almost right away after a long day of travel - but not before, with a bit of adrenalin and excitement at being here, taking a stroll around the complex. It was midnight and still twilight. Without trees, the place looks barren and almost lunar, and this punctuated still further by the fields of moss, lichen, and strewn lava rock debris.
As we would learn, it seems as though beds built for two (and not just two singles pushed together) are a bit of a rarity in Iceland. We fell asleep almost immediately and woke up to complimentary breakfast.
DAY 2
[Day 2, Sunday, May 17] - Keflavik - Reykjavik
Taking the B&B shuttle back to the airport, it was our intention to rent a vehicle from one of the three car rental agencies. Alas, there was virtually nothing available unless we booked far in advance. As this was the “shoulder season,” I didn’t think it was going to be a problem. So, I suggested to Deb that we take the Flybus (~3900 KR over 45 km) to the main bus station in Reykjavik in the hopes we’d have better luck with a car rental in the capital city. Our trip on the bus was our first real glimpse of the landscape in full daylight. Vast, barren, but interesting. We were in Reykjavik in no time.
We went to the rental agency next to the bus station, but had no luck. The man there said he could guarantee us one for tomorrow at noon, but only a manual and not an automatic. Deb was leery as she hadn’t driven a manual in a while, but we also knew we couldn’t be picky. We had already decided to stay in Reykjavik overnight anyway, so this worked out fine. Deb had asked someone at another rental agency about some places to stay in Reykjavik that were reasonably priced and somewhat centrally located.
With our luggage in tow, and map in hand, we went up the street and already found ourselves at the City Pond where the City Hall [Radhaus] was perched. As scale was not indicated on the map, I feared that our trek would be long, but it took us about 20 minutes to get to the downtown on foot. That was good because the wind was a bit chilly. We were just getting used to 20+ degree weather, and here we were in Iceland in single digits, almost as though we had gone back in time one month. As if to give us a visual reminder of our own past month in London, the trees and shrubs were just starting to bud with a few daffodils in bloom.
It took us a while to find a hostel called the Loft. Our first attempt saw us at a place called 101 which was very upscale. There was designer modernist furniture in the reception area, and ditto style of art on the walls. The concierge was a bit snooty as he called upstairs to see if a double room was available for “a walk in.” He said one was available, and then he told us it would be 69000 KR a night, or $690! I apologized for the mistake and we eventually found our hostel, tucked away on Bankastraeti.
It was indeed a hostel - the kind that billets travelers in dorm rooms that can sleep between 4-8 persons. There was a private room, which we took. There was a nice patio off the reception/bar area, but still it was pretty bare bones, and at 26000 KR a night, I knew we were paying for location, not for a five-star luxury experience. Our room overlooked...a piece of outdoor deadspace in the middle of the building, but it was quiet and private.
Once our luggage was in the room, we went out walking. Our first direction was to the big Hallgrim--- Church that dominates the city. All of the streets were pedestrian friendly, slightly chic, and had plenty of little boutiques and even more tourist traps to buy overpriced [select any conceivable object of your choice and print “Iceland” on it] knick-knacks. T-shirts, mugs, keychains, shotglasses, reindeer rugs, etc., etc. The Church itself has a statue of Lief Erikson.
We definitely had to visit the big Lutheran church Hallgrimskirkja as you can't go anywhere in Reykjavik without seeing it. We went inside and took pics of its modernized gothic structure - no frills or florid adornments, which may say something about its people.
We poked into stores (most of them tourist traps and perhaps a form of prostituting their culture), and it was not cheap. Food was also pretty expensive. I got the feeling that native Icelanders see tourists as a necessary evil given how much their economy after the banking failure depends on tourism dollars. Sometimes it felt as though they felt like they had to put on a show for us. In the spirit of defiant irony, I did not purchase an Icelandic sweater. However, the classic sweater pattern is on everything from serviettes, candles, to t-shirts. Anything that had pictures of puffins or said Iceland on it would be at a high mark-up.
After dinner, we took our second stroll (for those who don't know, Deb and me are avid walkers/hikers). It was past 9 or 10 pm, but the sun was still out, and the streets still busy - which was interesting for a Sunday. We went to the City Pond to see and hear the birds (video below).
Taking the B&B shuttle back to the airport, it was our intention to rent a vehicle from one of the three car rental agencies. Alas, there was virtually nothing available unless we booked far in advance. As this was the “shoulder season,” I didn’t think it was going to be a problem. So, I suggested to Deb that we take the Flybus (~3900 KR over 45 km) to the main bus station in Reykjavik in the hopes we’d have better luck with a car rental in the capital city. Our trip on the bus was our first real glimpse of the landscape in full daylight. Vast, barren, but interesting. We were in Reykjavik in no time.
We went to the rental agency next to the bus station, but had no luck. The man there said he could guarantee us one for tomorrow at noon, but only a manual and not an automatic. Deb was leery as she hadn’t driven a manual in a while, but we also knew we couldn’t be picky. We had already decided to stay in Reykjavik overnight anyway, so this worked out fine. Deb had asked someone at another rental agency about some places to stay in Reykjavik that were reasonably priced and somewhat centrally located.
With our luggage in tow, and map in hand, we went up the street and already found ourselves at the City Pond where the City Hall [Radhaus] was perched. As scale was not indicated on the map, I feared that our trek would be long, but it took us about 20 minutes to get to the downtown on foot. That was good because the wind was a bit chilly. We were just getting used to 20+ degree weather, and here we were in Iceland in single digits, almost as though we had gone back in time one month. As if to give us a visual reminder of our own past month in London, the trees and shrubs were just starting to bud with a few daffodils in bloom.
It took us a while to find a hostel called the Loft. Our first attempt saw us at a place called 101 which was very upscale. There was designer modernist furniture in the reception area, and ditto style of art on the walls. The concierge was a bit snooty as he called upstairs to see if a double room was available for “a walk in.” He said one was available, and then he told us it would be 69000 KR a night, or $690! I apologized for the mistake and we eventually found our hostel, tucked away on Bankastraeti.
It was indeed a hostel - the kind that billets travelers in dorm rooms that can sleep between 4-8 persons. There was a private room, which we took. There was a nice patio off the reception/bar area, but still it was pretty bare bones, and at 26000 KR a night, I knew we were paying for location, not for a five-star luxury experience. Our room overlooked...a piece of outdoor deadspace in the middle of the building, but it was quiet and private.
Once our luggage was in the room, we went out walking. Our first direction was to the big Hallgrim--- Church that dominates the city. All of the streets were pedestrian friendly, slightly chic, and had plenty of little boutiques and even more tourist traps to buy overpriced [select any conceivable object of your choice and print “Iceland” on it] knick-knacks. T-shirts, mugs, keychains, shotglasses, reindeer rugs, etc., etc. The Church itself has a statue of Lief Erikson.
We definitely had to visit the big Lutheran church Hallgrimskirkja as you can't go anywhere in Reykjavik without seeing it. We went inside and took pics of its modernized gothic structure - no frills or florid adornments, which may say something about its people.
We poked into stores (most of them tourist traps and perhaps a form of prostituting their culture), and it was not cheap. Food was also pretty expensive. I got the feeling that native Icelanders see tourists as a necessary evil given how much their economy after the banking failure depends on tourism dollars. Sometimes it felt as though they felt like they had to put on a show for us. In the spirit of defiant irony, I did not purchase an Icelandic sweater. However, the classic sweater pattern is on everything from serviettes, candles, to t-shirts. Anything that had pictures of puffins or said Iceland on it would be at a high mark-up.
After dinner, we took our second stroll (for those who don't know, Deb and me are avid walkers/hikers). It was past 9 or 10 pm, but the sun was still out, and the streets still busy - which was interesting for a Sunday. We went to the City Pond to see and hear the birds (video below).
DAY 3
[Day 3, Monday, May 18] It was time for us to leave Reykjavik. We picked up our small VW Polo hatchback, and off we went on route 1 (the 2-lane highway that circles the entirety of Iceland). We accidentally were going along the north route for a while until we hit a long tunnel underneath the water (the Hvalfjarđargöng) that went a few kilometres. We came out and breezed through the toll without paying, but we came back a few minutes later, told the toll operator the truth of our mistake, and he just waved us through so that we could do the tunnel again! The pressure down there is incredible, and the walls are all carved out.
So began our southbound drive. Bedazzled by the landscape of mountains, rolling lava rock fields, and so forth, we hit our first destination - the greenhouse town of Hveragerđi where we stopped into their version of a discount grocery store, Bonus, to stock up on provisions and car snacks. Hveragerđi is home to plenty of hot springs, and you can see the steam billowing out of holes in the base of the mountain.
Next town was on the bridge over the Olfusa river and into picturesque Selfoss. After that it was mountains and small farming villages tenaciously clinging to the base of said mountains, and also plenty of baby sheep! We passed the hard to pronounce Eyjafjallajökull volcano We eventually came down the mountain into the charming seaside town of Vik, replete with the three trolls poking up from the roiling sea, and the vast black sand beach. Yes, BLACK SAND!
We checked into what would be our quiet home for the next three nights, the Katla Hotel just at the base of the Katla mountain, which had the feel of a cottage complex, and a hot tub that was heated by a hot spring some 700 metres below ground. We then drove back to Vik and took in the beach.
So began our southbound drive. Bedazzled by the landscape of mountains, rolling lava rock fields, and so forth, we hit our first destination - the greenhouse town of Hveragerđi where we stopped into their version of a discount grocery store, Bonus, to stock up on provisions and car snacks. Hveragerđi is home to plenty of hot springs, and you can see the steam billowing out of holes in the base of the mountain.
Next town was on the bridge over the Olfusa river and into picturesque Selfoss. After that it was mountains and small farming villages tenaciously clinging to the base of said mountains, and also plenty of baby sheep! We passed the hard to pronounce Eyjafjallajökull volcano We eventually came down the mountain into the charming seaside town of Vik, replete with the three trolls poking up from the roiling sea, and the vast black sand beach. Yes, BLACK SAND!
We checked into what would be our quiet home for the next three nights, the Katla Hotel just at the base of the Katla mountain, which had the feel of a cottage complex, and a hot tub that was heated by a hot spring some 700 metres below ground. We then drove back to Vik and took in the beach.
DAY 4
[Day 4, Tuesday, May 19] Skaftafell, Jokulsarlon, riding through a black lunar landscape
Part of my plan was for us to go see the glaciers and the iceberg lake at Jokulsarlon, some 187 km east of Vik. The first stretch was a long and eerie one: with just the mountains in the distance, for about half an hour we were driving across a flat, black-sand, featureless landscape that was like driving on the moon. The further east we went, the more we encountered narrow bridges where vehicles in opposite directions would have to take turns. Fortunately, traffic on that highway is not very busy at all. We finally got there and took in the icebergs and the enormous glacier. It was a phenomenal sight that is truly a unique experience.
We drove back and had a lovely dinner at the hotel, ready for our next day’s adventure.
Part of my plan was for us to go see the glaciers and the iceberg lake at Jokulsarlon, some 187 km east of Vik. The first stretch was a long and eerie one: with just the mountains in the distance, for about half an hour we were driving across a flat, black-sand, featureless landscape that was like driving on the moon. The further east we went, the more we encountered narrow bridges where vehicles in opposite directions would have to take turns. Fortunately, traffic on that highway is not very busy at all. We finally got there and took in the icebergs and the enormous glacier. It was a phenomenal sight that is truly a unique experience.
We drove back and had a lovely dinner at the hotel, ready for our next day’s adventure.
DAY 5
[Day 5, Wednesday, May 20]: The next day was pretty rainy and windy. When I say that, we are talking the kind of rainy and windy conditions those who live in coastal regions out east or up north know all too well. Still, we weren’t going to let that spoil our plans. We drove into Vik and bought some good wind and water-resistant jackets, and we were off to the other side of the mountain in Vik, the Reynisfjara area with its massive caves, violent waves, forbidding coastline, enormous basalt columns (the same that inspired the building of the Hallgrimskirkja in Reykjavik), and a black pebble beach. We also spotted puffins on the high cliffs!
After, we drove back to our hotel and decided on a long hike just behind our hotel between the mountains and up the pass on the road to Thakgil. Plenty of sheep, cows, and horses, and a hard road for vehicles, our walk took us to an abandoned farm with the bones of sheep, and eventually to the top of a high bluff about 1500 feet up and overlooking the flat, black lunar landscape below. We couldn’t see as much as we would have liked as it was very foggy up in the mountains, and the rain and wind was pretty fierce. So down we went for another relaxing evening at the hotel.
After, we drove back to our hotel and decided on a long hike just behind our hotel between the mountains and up the pass on the road to Thakgil. Plenty of sheep, cows, and horses, and a hard road for vehicles, our walk took us to an abandoned farm with the bones of sheep, and eventually to the top of a high bluff about 1500 feet up and overlooking the flat, black lunar landscape below. We couldn’t see as much as we would have liked as it was very foggy up in the mountains, and the rain and wind was pretty fierce. So down we went for another relaxing evening at the hotel.
Day 6
[Day 6, Thursday, May 21]: Back to Reykjavik. It was time to say goodbye to our lovely Katla hotel and drive back to Reykjavik where I booked us a few nights at the lovely Centric Guesthouse on Laekjargata. The staff were tremendously friendly and overall just lovely. We walked around Reykjavik for two days, also taking in a few evenings at the nearby pub.
Day 7
[Day 7-8, Friday, May 22/23]: Departure. It was time to say goodbye to Reykjavik and Iceland. We took the shuttle bus to Keflavik and got ourselves ready for the long trip home. There was a fire alarm (turned out to be a false alarm), which meant we all had to evacuate the building and go through security again.
In all, this has been a profound journey in a profound landscape where it is easy to see how so many generations of people have been inspired, and why so many people want to visit.
In all, this has been a profound journey in a profound landscape where it is easy to see how so many generations of people have been inspired, and why so many people want to visit.